6.00 EUR
This is a digital sewing pattern for a 1890´s Lounge Jacket.
The Lounge Jacket shown in this sewing pattern, is based on a pattern from the book “The cutters practical guide” by W.D.F. Vincent. The single breasted jacket has three instead of four buttons and wider lapels in contrast to former jackets.
The jacket has double welt pocket with flaps on both sides, a ticket pocket on the right side at the waistline (double welt with flap) and a welt pocket on the left chest.
The shoulder seam is moved back as usual during the 19th century, thin shoulder pads made from two or three layers of wadding are inserted to give the shoulder the desired shape.
The front and collar are stiffened with hair canvas, alternatively a midweight linen fabric can be used. The canvas is pad stitched to the lapel and collar, a technique still used today in tailoring men´s jackets.
I recommend sturdy jacket and coat fabrics from wool or wool blends, avoid lightweight modern suit fabrics.
This instruction shows the classic tailoring of a men´s jacket. All interfacing/canvas can be replaced by fusible as desired and modern working can be chosen but will not be mentioned in the further.
The construction of the collar is explained using under collar felt which can be replaced by any nonwoven midweight felt fabric from wool or polyester.
Also suitable for steampunk or cosplay costumes.
The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is included in my patterns.
It is a multi size pattern, you can choose between US 34-44 (EU 44-54) and US 46-56 (EU 56-66).
This is a PDF-Download pattern, immediately after payment you can download both sizes of the pattern.
Printable on paper size DIN A4 or US Letter.
The sewing pattern itself consists of 45 US letter pages or 2,5 A0 plots up to size US 44 (EU 54) and 54 US letter pages or 3 A0 plots up to size US 56 (EU 66)
Format DIN A0 to be printed on a plotter / copyshop comes with a second email without additional costs.
Recommended fabrics:
Fashioin fabric: wool fabrics, sturdy suit fabrics like tweed, velvet
Interlining: Hair canvas or midweight linnen fabric
Lining: (polished) cotton fabric, lining fabrics, silk lining for the sleeves
Yardage:
US 34-44 (EU 44-54):
Fashion fabric: 3yds. (2,7m) with a width of 52“ (130cm)
Lining: 2.2 yds. (2m) with a width of 52“ (130cm)
Interlining: 1.7yds. (1,5m) with a width of 32“ (80cm)
Collar: collar felt
3-4 Buttons 1“ (2,5cm) 6 Buttons 5/8“ (1,5cm)
Cotton tape 1/2“ (1cm) wide: 5yds. (5m)
US 46-56 (EU 56-66):
Fabric required:
Fashion fabric: 3.3yds. (3m) with a width of 52“ (130cm)
Lining: 3 yds. (2,6m) with a width of 52“ (130cm)
Interlining: 2.3yds. (2m) with a width of 32“ (80cm)
Collar: felt
3-4 Buttons 1“ (2,5cm) 6 Buttons 5/8“ (1,5cm)
Cotton tape 1/2“ (1cm) wide: 6m